You are not logged in. Would you like to login or register?

Resources » Techinial Manuals » 13-7-2015 13:05:01

dukedford
Replies: 1

Go to post

Found this site with Instruction and Technical Manuals all good stuff

http://site.xavier.edu/polt/typewriters/tw-manuals.html

 

Maintenance & Repairs » Order of cleaning » 29-6-2015 14:53:37

dukedford
Replies: 6

Go to post

At Royal we used the following as a guide to checking the fictions on a typewriter 
1 Carriage to Base, Line Space and Paper Feed
2 Ring and Cylinder
3 Writing Line and Motion
4 Shift Locks
5 Type Bar Trip and Escapement Limits
6 Bichrome
7 Margins, Tabulator, Back Space, Space Bar
8 Ribbon Drive and Reverses
9 Aligning
10 Scales
11 Covers and Panels 
 

Maintenance & Repairs » Slugs make metallic sound when hitting platen & filled in letters » 29-6-2015 14:34:18

dukedford
Replies: 11

Go to post

Clean the type with a brush and white spirit
place a cloth under the type bars and the brush them until clean
you might have to wipe each type bar clean to get rid of any excess liquid and dirt
a hard tooth brush is fine to clean the type
do not use a wire brush as that will damage the type face 

check that the type bars are entering the type guide correctly 

check that none of the plates are loose 

some times when the platen is hard it can sound tinny

also check the ring and cylinder
remove the ribbon
move the carriage so the platen is in the centre of the machine.
then feed a peace of paper round the platen
tare off a small peace of paper, then lift the “H” key lever
place the paper strip in front of the platen between the type face and the platen
hold the type bar on to the ring
then pull the paper up, there should be a slite resistance
if the paper will not pull out the platen is too near
if there is no resistance the platen is to far away
do this with the “W” and the “Q“ and at both ends of the platen 

if I think of anything else I will post it
 

The World of Typewriters » What's The Difference? Understanding my fonts... » 27-6-2015 14:31:41

dukedford
Replies: 29

Go to post

Uwe wrote:

It's interesting to learn that Royal - and other manufacturers - sub-contracted the manufacture of certain parts. Do you recall specific examples of which parts were made in house as opposed to being outsourced?

I can relate one example that went wrong. Royal Holland around 1961 started to bye Ratchet Cups from a company called Typewriter Sundries Ltd (own by OEM the people who later bought the Royal Imperial typewriter division from Litton). How ever these ratchet cups were not hardened properly so serrations on the inside of the cup after a few hours of use would just wear away. The test we made was to hold the line space lever in the ratchet and turn the right hand platen knob this would would smooth the inside of the cup. Now this is were the fun stars new cups were shipped to Holland from the UK to be fitted in new machines and sent to the UK. We would take them out and ship the faulty cups to Holland and thy would then ship them back to to Typewriter Sundries the UK for replacement.
The way Royal UK got over this problem was to get a supply of ratchet cups from Canada until the factory sorted out the mess thy had made.

Uwe wrote:

This perspective is fascinating to read. And its ironic given that Royal under Litton ended up buying Adler in 16 years later. I've not read much that has put European manufacturers into perspective in terms of market share, but I had always assumed that Olympia was the big dog, perhaps not as early as '53, but certainly by the '60s. Do you recall which manufacturer Royal considered to be its biggest competition in the European market?

I am so so sure about the European market but in the UK Olivetti, Olympia, Adler, Imperial, Smith Corona, Underwood and IBM were all typewriter market and Royal always considered that the service department was a very important to their sales effort having the following slogan for the service department.

Can Royal Win Sales Through Better Mechanics, Repairing and Servicing?

The World of Typewriters » What's The Difference? Understanding my fonts... » 24-6-2015 12:03:56

dukedford
Replies: 29

Go to post

1. I assumed that Royal manufactured its own slugs, but do you know for how many years the company produced its own slugs or where they were actually manufactured? 

I do not know the answer to this question, but all the machines I worked on built before 1953 in the US or Canada had Royal typefaces. After 1953 Royal started to build Typewriters in Holland and use Ransmayer type on these machines. 

2. Was it normal for slugs to be made in the same factory alongside the other parts of the machine? 

I am sorry but I do not know much about the manufacturing process but I do know that like other makers parts were bought in from small parts manufacturers . 

3. Why would Royal use German-made slugs for machines built in Holland, and its own slugs for those made in North America. 

It could have been cost or ease of manufacture. Ransmayer type had a serif on the top of the type face and if you used their type jig there was a slot that the serif doped into and guaranteed perfect alignment even when using inexperienced workforce. The workforce in Canada were more highly skilled then in Holland and that showed up in the final product. Royal were also trying to get into the German market and as Adler were using Ransmayer type, so having the same type styles put them into a better position to compete with them. 

4. Can you explain the term "motion"? 

This is the distance between the upper case and lower case characters on a type face and therefore the distance the segment moves (the motion) up and down. 

The reason for different lengths of motion was that the larger the diameter of the platen the longer the motion. Using short motion type on a large diameter platen would cause lower part of the upper case character appearing above the lower case character and vice versa. 

Ransmayer made type there own type styles in the following motions 6.6mm 7.6mm and 8.5mm. 

Some languages like Greek and Arabic were made in 7.73.mm, 7,25 and 8.0 mm 

Royal, IBM and Corona o

The World of Typewriters » What's The Difference? Understanding my fonts... » 22-6-2015 13:31:10

dukedford
Replies: 29

Go to post

FPP, FPE and FPS 

FPP 10 pitch machine with pica type, the machines made in Canada had Royal Pica type P but machines made in Holland had Ransmayer Pica Ro1 

10 pitch machines could be fitted with Elite type face at customer's request. (not fitted in the factory) 

FPE 12 pitch machine with Elite type machines made in Canada had Royal Elite type Eand later Ransmayer Ra 246 but machines made in Holland had Ransmayer Elite Ro7 

Special type could also be fitted ether as standard a type face, split typeface or hand engraved typeface. 

FPS could have 5, 10,12,16 and 20 pitch and almost any type face. 

5 pitch any typeface requited by the customer
10 pitch Imperial Pica Ro82 was one of the most common but the customer could request other typefaces factory fitted .
12 pitch Imperial Elite Ro84 and Brussels Ro88 were both common but the customer could request other typefaces factory fitted.
16 pitch any typeface requited by the customer
20 pitch any typeface requited by the customer 

Motion on the Royal FPThe motion on the Canadian FP was 6.73mm
The motion on the early Dutch was 6.6mm then later 7.6mm motion 
The normal motion for Portable Typewriters was 6.73 or 6.6mm 

PF typewriters were built with 11”, 13”, 16”, 21”, 27” and 33” carriages  
 

Early Typewriters » Royal 5 questions » 19-6-2015 15:39:52

dukedford
Replies: 18

Go to post

REMOVING AND REINSTALLING A ROYAL CARRAGE 
Remove the platen and feeds, this make the carriage lighter and easer to manage. 

Move the right hand margin stop to the right and the left margin stop to the left. 

Remove the carriage band and secure it on the right there should be a screw anchor if not anchor it some were it can not get loose. 

Now from the back of the machine move the carriage to the left (the line space lever in the centre) 

On the carriage you will see the carriage clamps first remove the clamps hanging over the of the base of the machine. Then loosen the screws of the centre one still on the rail NO NOT REMOVE. 

DO NOT REMOVE ANY OTHER CARRIAGE CLAMPS. 

Now move the carriage to the right of the machine and will be able to lift it off. 

Firstly move it towards you and lift so the carriage to release the carriage from the support rail then lift the end over the rail to release the back space lever it will now lift off. 

Now the carriage is off check the number of ball bearings and pinions there should be 2 for carriages of 16” or under and 4 for carriages over 16”. 

Clean the rails with oil and white mix spirit and check the escapement rack for damage and clean. 

Also check the escapement wheel and clean. 

TO REFIT THE CARRIAGE. 

Place the balls and pinions on the rail again with the back of the machine facing you. 

The one on the right 3 teeth from the end and the other one approximately 3 teeth from the centre. If there are 4 balls and pinions, position other two 6 teeth from the two you have just place on the rail to the centre on the rail. 

-----------------------------*----======----------------------------*----  

-----------------------------*----==*===--------------------*-------*---- 

Place the carriage back on the rail making sure the back support roller is sitting on the back rail and the backspace lever is above the escapement rack. 

Move the carriage slowly to the left and check the ball pinions are

Early Typewriters » Royal 5 questions » 18-6-2015 08:11:15

dukedford
Replies: 18

Go to post

ok give me a few days and i will tell you how to remove and replace the carrage
 

Early Typewriters » Royal 5 questions » 18-6-2015 00:49:54

dukedford
Replies: 18

Go to post

Do you know how to remove a Royal carrage?
 

Early Typewriters » Royal 5 questions » 17-6-2015 16:19:42

dukedford
Replies: 18

Go to post

As long as the platen is not shiny you can clean it with a mix of half mentholated spirit and half white spirit this will remove any ink and other dirt and then with just white spirit this give a reasonable finish. 

Feed rolls can be cleaned in the same way but always remove the feed rolls from the machine and from the shaft thy are on, then lightly oil the shaft with a mixture of oil and white spirit so thy don't stick.
The white spirit will evaporate and leave a light layer of oil so it dose not get on the rollers. 

If the platen is shiny you can try rubbing it down with emery cloth ether by hand or better on a lath. If your using a lath use a long length of emery cloth about 3/4” wide and as the platen is turningrun the emery cloth along it, with the emery cloth at the rear of the platen and holding the ends in the front run from one end to the other 2 or 3 times or until you have removed the shine.
Then run a cloth soaked in WHITE SPIRIT along the platen while the lath is still running this will clean any powder from the platen and give it a new look sheen. 

By hand also use emery cloth rubbing up and down the platen and again finishing off with white spirit but this never gives a good finish so not really recommended. 

Board footera

 

Powered by Boardhost. Create a Free Forum