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Typewriter Photo Galleries » The American Gallery » 19-11-2019 10:55:56

IanJ
Replies: 75

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My first was an Underwood too, a great place to start! I'm yet to get a chicken. Happy anniversary!
Ian J

Maintenance & Repairs » Lettera 32 q key not fully striking the platen » 17-11-2019 05:21:51

IanJ
Replies: 2

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That's really helpful, thanks, and gives me the confidence to go at it with the file! Many thanks for the prompt response.

Maintenance & Repairs » Lettera 32 q key not fully striking the platen » 17-11-2019 04:14:29

IanJ
Replies: 2

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Hi all
After some hunting, I finally acquired a lovely 1968 Lettera 32 in great original condition. The only issue (apart from the rubbish PVC case...!) is that the lower case q doesn't fully hit the platen, the bottom of the letter is missing completely. It sounds different to the other keys too, as I assume that all the force of the key strike is going into the segment plate (not the platen). There is a similar issue with the last key on the opposite end of the segment. I've had a close look and used a feeler gauge to check the gap to the platen when the key is fully pressed, which confirms there is a greater gap, compared to other keys. Bending the slug forward would just cause the top of the letter to hit even earlier, still leaving a problem with the tail of the letter. The only logical solution is to file down the lug on the typebar arm, so that it hits the segment plate later and hence the slug gets to hit the platen properly. I'm reluctant to make this non-reversible adjustment in case I'm missing something obvious. It's slightly better on upper case (Q) but still a little faint.
Any thoughts?

Maintenance & Repairs » When you can't find the part you need...... » 17-10-2019 04:38:26

IanJ
Replies: 7

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....a very fine piece of work, especially given the scale...Well done!

Far better than my work of yesterday - when building some wooden shelving for my cellar typewriter workshop I managed to screw together part of the wooden framework around my folding workbench, effectively trapping the damn thing in the middle of the frame...doh!

Portable Typewriters » New Lettera 22 - Help dating it please? » 04-10-2019 17:11:17

IanJ
Replies: 4

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Hi there
There is a separate line for the Glasgow Lettera 32 models in the database, but only mention of one serial number from 1980...
The factory in Glasgow opened in 1948, if memory serves me, and the Lettera model clearly made up a good part of its production, along with the Lexicon standard model. I have an early M44, which seems to have been unique to the Glasgow factory. Given that you are in Oz, you may have already seen the brochure and photos posted on the oztypewriter site, of production at the Glasgow factory? If not, it's well worth a look.
Sorry, can't help on the serial number...!
I've not yet acquired a Lettera, but it's on my wish list - keep missing them on eBay.
Ian J

Maintenance & Repairs » underwood number 5 restoration » 21-9-2019 11:23:05

IanJ
Replies: 14

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I'm just guessing here, as I have not yet tried it on my Underwood, but usually you are able to unscrew the rod inwards (towards the centre of the machine) on this kind of fixing. I made the assumption that the grub screws through the rod, once removed, would allow the length of the rod to be reduced (wider sleeves of the section holding the grub screws passing over a narrower central section of rod). This is my assumption, as removal of the inserts with the inner threads, set into the frame, would not seem possible, as you point out. For the purpose of getting some movement on this, WD40 would be permissible!
I'm a bit snowed under with fabulous new stock at the moment but will have a look at mine if I get a chance later this week (assuming of course that we are talking about the same part of the Underwood!)
Good luck
Ian J

Typewriter Paraphernalia » Wide ribbon - to re-ink, or not to re-ink... » 20-9-2019 16:49:26

IanJ
Replies: 2

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I'm more than happy for you to advertise your wares when I can benefit from it! I did check your website as you were advertising some wider ribbons, so it's good to hear that you are now offering a 19mm option.
I'll be in touch!

Many thanks
Ian J

Typewriter Paraphernalia » Wide ribbon - to re-ink, or not to re-ink... » 20-9-2019 09:54:17

IanJ
Replies: 2

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I've just become the very fortunate owner of an early The Empire (aka Empire 1?). I had been after it for a while but the owner wanted too high a price. This week it was back at the local antique yard and after a brief call to the owner, we negotiated a much more reasonable price.
It seems to be in full working condition straight out of the cardboard case (the years have not treated the case so favourably...!) but predictably the ink is dry. There seems to be a supplier in the Netherlands who can provide a new ribbon, but for £25 including postage.
I've reviewed the various earlier threads on sourcing wider ribbons (this seems to be 3/4 inch or approx 20mm) on both regenerating or re-inking ribbons and wondered if there have been any further thoughts or results of experimentation since then (2014/15)? At the moment I'm favouring the regeneration method with glycerin, to have a go at?
Many thanks!
Ian J
P.s. Will post some photos in the appropriate section, once it's cleaned up a little - fantastic looking machine, with a skeletal profile from most angles

Maintenance & Repairs » When you can't find the part you need...... » 19-9-2019 14:34:31

IanJ
Replies: 7

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My mistake! I didn't read it accurately...in that case, good luck with it! I had to fabricate some replacement metal lugs for the back panel of a Royal Model P case (along with the piece of panel that the original lugs disappeared with...). I struggled to find out what the original ones looked like, but accuracy of design wasn't that critical and on a larger scale than your challenge. I bought a used pillar drill and a used bench grinder off eBay, which have been really useful.

Maintenance & Repairs » underwood number 5 restoration » 18-9-2019 10:48:43

IanJ
Replies: 14

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Hi Messy
​I've attached photos of the two Underwood 5 typewriters I have. As you can see, they have different fixings on the side of the frame. I'm wondering if what you thought to be rivets are actually fixings with internal threads (possibly not noticeable on your machine because of the amount of rust on it?). They should come apart but will need dismantling from within the frame. It looks as though the connecting rods have grub screws set into sleeves, which fit over the rods. 
​I hope I've captured the fixings you were referring to? Let me know if you need further photos.
Good luck with it!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48753838928_84bb034831_c.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48754354142_e97949289a_c.jpg
 

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