Hi Dana

For a PDF copy of an owner's manual which should work for your typewriter, go to: RoyalQDL1952.pdf (xavier.edu)  Although the manual is for a machine 2 years older than yours, most of the information will be quite relevant. All the best,

Sky
 

Hi Dana

Just a couple of quick questions for clarification. Where are you located (Province or State is close enough)? and where was the typewriter made (USA or Canada)? Serial numbers of machines made in Canada do not always gel with listings on the Typewriter Base.

However, from what I can find on the database, the RA- prefix indicates your machine has the "Speed Control" (small knob on the left side of the body to increase or decrease mainspring tension) and the serial number you give puts your unit as being built in 1954. Hope this helps,

Sky

Hi S.R.

Welcome to the forum. Flat feed rollers and hard platens do not help when it comes to keeping the type straight on the paper. Feed roller tension (or lack thereof) against the platen can cause the paper to not track true. I have also seen the rubber sleeve of the platen come loose on its wooden core which tends to make things go a little wonky.

The other issue that I have seen on these vintage Remingtons is the line index detent roller can sometimes develop flat spots, lose spring tension or be all together missing. When you advance the paper by turning the right platen knob, you should feel a positive click with each line advanced as the detent roller engages into each notch on the ratchet wheel. Hope this gives you a few ideas of places to look for possible problems. All the best,

Sky

Hi Joe

This is all interesting information. I was talking with another Type-Pal member on a zoom meeting Saturday evening. This member had visited the J.J. Short production facility while on a trip out to Macedon New York. Both Peter and John Short were saying that although they know rubber, they are still learning about the needs of typewriter collectors and users. They also said that any useful information and suggestions are always welcome and appreciated in order to help them better serve the typosphere.

Only a very few such as Tom "The Typewriter Man" have original knowledge carried over from when the typewriter was the mainstay of the office world. The rest of us are still learning and should be willing to forgive the occasional mistake from ourselves and others. All the best,

Sky

Hi Jim

The mechanical Shore-A tire durometer from Amazon is adequate for the needs of most of us typewriter collectors and users. Talking with Peter Short of J.J. Short Associates, Peter says that new platen hardness is 88 to 90 Shore-A for a manual typewriter and 95 Shore-A for a Selectric. As Uwe says, the pin of a Shore-A durometer will only make a very small dent in the platen which will rebound if the platen is 95 Shore-A or lower. If the platen is 96 or harder, the pin can't penetrate deep enough to leave a dent. A Shore-D durometer has almost a sharp point that will leave a small hole in the platen.

A platen that reads 96 or higher using a Shore-A durometer is basically too hard for a manual typewriter. Using a Shore-D durometer isn't going to give you any useful information, so is more or less a moot point unless you are just curious as to how over hard the platen is, if that makes sense.