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Maintenance & Repairs » Low letter » 01-11-2019 00:31:52

SoucekFan
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If it is not off to a degree that requires resoldering, then it can be done through either peening/mauling or forming. This would require specialty tools, and depending where the character sits on the segment, may require addition alignment adjustments to compensate for the angle of the typebar and the effects of the new adjustments; outer characters like 'Q' and 'W' are a real pain to correct--at least for me. Whether you peen with peening pliers or form with roll-benders would depend on the angle of the typebar, if other alignment issues are present, the ring and cylinder setting, and personal preference.

To raise by peening, you would peen the front portion of the typebar just below the point that passes through the typeguide, making sure not to go to the very edge. To raise by forming, you would bend the typebar back with roll-bending pliers. The latter will effect the ring and cylindar setting, also, so it is not always the correct choice. These adjustments should be done very carefully, because a little bit can go a long way, and much of this--especially peening--is destructive editing. Before doing either method, check that there are no other issues, that the typeslug is not loose, and the type is not off by so much that resoldering is required. For more information on alignment procedures, I believe the topic is covered towards the end of some of the Ames Manuals. I would not recommend doing this without the proper tools, and I would practice on a junk machine first.

Maintenance & Repairs » Royal 'O' vs. Quiet De Luxe » 26-10-2019 22:28:54

SoucekFan
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Yes, the platens and feed rollers on the main models of Royal portables are compatible from the 'P' through at least the 50's Quiet De Luxe. I am not sure about some of the budget models, but all A,B,O, and P models are compatible from the 20's though at least 1957. I have swapped them quite a few times.

Standard Typewriters » It's so nice to have a 5 around the house » 25-10-2019 01:11:02

SoucekFan
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It could have just had those specific parts replaced or repainted at some point. Other things may have been as well, even it they are in the factory style. Without knowing its service history, one can only speculate.

Standard Typewriters » It's so nice to have a 5 around the house » 25-10-2019 00:14:19

SoucekFan
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It was likely reconditioned, refurbished, or rebuilt at some point in its history, at which point it was repainted in textured paint by a dealer, shop, or factory. It is quite common to see standards that were redone in textured paint.

Standard Typewriters » Need help with year/value of typewriter » 18-7-2019 11:35:30

SoucekFan
Replies: 4

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You can go to the Typewriter Database to find the model, and date the machine by finding the serial number and consulting the serial number chart for the brand.

As far as value, it will vary widely depending on the model, mechanical and cosmetic condition, location, seasonality, how and what venue it is sold, as well as numerous other factors. To get a general idea of the value, you can compare sold listings (not current asking prices) on eBay of the same model in similar condition. Disregard typewriters that are refurbished or sold by sellers who specialize in typewriters, as those numbers will skew much higher than the average realized price of a machine in as-found condition.  This will give you an idea of the current eBay value. The local value will generally be significantly less, unless you live in certain major metropolitan areas where prices may skew higher. Hope this helps.

Maintenance & Repairs » Replacing Keys and Slugs » 05-7-2019 13:18:31

SoucekFan
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With the key, it depends on whether you mean just the key top or whether the key arm has broken off. If it is just the key top, you can pop one on taken from a parts machine. If the key arm has broken off, then that would be very challenging to replace.

In regard to the type slug, you could either solder on an new slug, or replace the whole typebar. Either way you will need a compatible donor machine with the same typeface in the same pitch. Soldering type slugs is not a beginner task.  Replacing the whole typebar is actually not too difficult on a 50's S-C, but the donor typebars can be out of alignment when swapping to another machine, and may require forming/peening to get in better alignment, which may be difficult without the skills and proper tools. Of the two options, I usually go for replacing the whole typebar, but that is because I can tweak alignment but I suck at soldering.
 

Standard Typewriters » 1933 royal 10 » 14-5-2019 17:02:43

SoucekFan
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Fleetwing wrote:

It's a Royal KHM (1930s vintage)

A KHM would have a keyset tabulator. This one is an H.
 

Typewriter Paraphernalia » Typewriter cases » 25-4-2019 11:19:19

SoucekFan
Replies: 13

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I believe there are multiple reasons that the covers go missing. I think some users back in the day preferred to type without the ribbon cover and lost track of it. I cannot remember precisely, but I believe this why Woody Allen is missing his Olympia cover. It think some covers may have become damaged or no longer able to stay attached. Also, some may have been lost in the dormant years when the typewriter may have been messed with or shuffled around wherever it was stored or displayed, For instance: If the typewriter was on display at a thrift store and the cover was knocked off, but then someone bought the typewriter not knowing that there was a cover; which is plausible as many typewriters are mistreated on display, and quite a few people selling the machines often seem to not know that there is supposed to be a cover.

Typewriter Paraphernalia » Typewriter cases » 24-4-2019 23:49:00

SoucekFan
Replies: 13

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I see them occasionally at antique shops and from time to time on eBay. At antique malls I will pick them up if they are under $15 bucks, if it is for certain models.

Portable Typewriters » Odd 1941 Smith-Corona Model 3A » 18-4-2019 13:37:50

SoucekFan
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I believe--and I could be wrong--that in the first couple of years of production, the matte finish versions of both the Silent and the Sterling speedline models had three stripes. Sometime around 1940 and after, the Sterlings went to two stripes. The Standard model had the chevron stripe.

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