1 - Rusty Keys
- Novice Typer
Offline - Registered: 04-5-2022
- Posts: 43
Some general restoration questions
For some time now I have been searching for a typewriter in need of restoration. I didn't want a hopeless case and I didn't want a machine that just needed a spit polish and a new ribbon. I was fortunate to purchase a Smith Corona Silent for a paltry sum that is in need of some serious cleaning, refurbishment and adjustment. An initial assessment finds the basic functions in working order e.g. space bar, the platen turns freely, most of the keys work (some stick, a couple are frozen), tabs, back-space return work fine. There is some rust on some of the internal mechanisms, but it appears to be fatal. There is a copious amount of dust and some kind of animal fur throughout. Fortunately, the animal appears to have vacated. The chassis is worn and scratched in various places. There are some sticky keys, and the carriage return lever needs some adjustment to allow the platen to turn. I also note some of the padding where the keys rest has deteriorated. (As you can tell, some of my typewriter nomenclature is lacking).
My initial questions are as follows: what kind of cleaning products and tools do you use for different types of cleaning? For example, what do you use to remove rust? What products do you use to remove layers of dust, grime, gunk (not the correct technical terms I know) of one sort or another? What kinds of tools or aids do you use to clean the machine? Are there any products I should absolutely avoid?
My plan is to remove the chassis and try to remove all the rust, dust, dirt and fur. Then tend to each function to ensure it works efficiently. Any and all advice is welcomed.
- Laurenz van Gaalen
- Speed Champion
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- From: The Netherlands
- Registered: 20-7-2019
- Posts: 398
Re: Some general restoration questions
bluesguru in yyc wrote:
First, compressed air in invaluable for the first stage of cleaning.
Be aware compressed air can blow out parts. Especially small or partly dislodged springs and screws. Use as little pressure as possible. Place the typewriter on a large towel or in a box to have a reasonable chance to find back blown out parts.
- Rusty Keys
- Novice Typer
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- Posts: 43
Re: Some general restoration questions
Great advice so far. Keep it coming! I have two cans of compressed air and lots of small zip lock bags. Also have lots of small brushes, rags and elbow grease to get me started.
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Thread Starter- Rusty Keys
- Novice Typer
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- Posts: 43
Re: Some general restoration questions
The machine was oiled at one time and as far as I can tell, the previous owner was a smoker with very dirty hands. I am planning to do some kind of a "dunk clean" of the machine. Any advice on what solution to use or tips on a deep clean of this sort?
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Thread Starter- Phil_F_NM
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- From: Mid-Atlantic region
- Registered: 16-4-2020
- Posts: 267
Re: Some general restoration questions
Don't get any type of solvent on typewriter crinkle paint. Some paint is tougher than others, but the SC stuff from the late 40s - early 60s does not hold up well to exposure to any solvent or heavy duty soap. Use mild soap and a toothbrush on your crinkle paint. If you have a glossy lacquered Silent, just use mild soap and a diaper, then a bunch of Flitz to polish the paint. I must have taken off a few grams worth of tar from cigarette, cigar, and pipe smokers when cleaning my Corona 4 and pre-WWII Sterling.
For the machine itself, once you get the chassis out of the body, I like to use Coleman fuel with the chassis sitting in a plastic bin. No need to dunk. Just get a decent set of long-bristle paint brushes and go to town on the machine. Make sure to remove ALL of the rubber; rollers, platen, bail rollers, and the little bits which have melted between the chassis and the body. You may want some hobby enamel handy to re-paint some of the engravings here and there. I use a rocket blower, long tweezers, wooden skewers, and whatever else will fit in various spaces to clean machines. I have an old credit card which I cut into a hook shape to get into the segment slots.
No matter how much you clean it, there will always be more dirt which will come out of it.
Phil Forrest
- Rusty Keys
- Novice Typer
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- Registered: 04-5-2022
- Posts: 43
Re: Some general restoration questions
The machine was oiled at one time and as far as I can tell, the previous owner was a smoker with very dirty hands. I am planning to do some kind of a "dunk clean" of the machine. Any advice on what solution to use or tips on a deep clean of this sort?
I should clarify. The machine was oiled, particularly in the basket/ type key slots, and it is quite gummy. Same underneath. I have completed the removal of dust and sundry bits of fur, etc. There is, under the layer of dust, a thick layer of grime that is sticky and dirty, hence my assumption the previous owner had dirty hands. I think the machine could benefit from de-greasing.
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Thread Starter- Rusty Keys
- Novice Typer
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- Registered: 04-5-2022
- Posts: 43
Re: Some general restoration questions
Don't get any type of solvent on typewriter crinkle paint. Some paint is tougher than others, but the SC stuff from the late 40s - early 60s does not hold up well to exposure to any solvent or heavy duty soap. Use mild soap and a toothbrush on your crinkle paint. If you have a glossy lacquered Silent, just use mild soap and a diaper, then a bunch of Flitz to polish the paint. I must have taken off a few grams worth of tar from cigarette, cigar, and pipe smokers when cleaning my Corona 4 and pre-WWII Sterling.
For the machine itself, once you get the chassis out of the body, I like to use Coleman fuel with the chassis sitting in a plastic bin. No need to dunk. Just get a decent set of long-bristle paint brushes and go to town on the machine. Make sure to remove ALL of the rubber; rollers, platen, bail rollers, and the little bits which have melted between the chassis and the body. You may want some hobby enamel handy to re-paint some of the engravings here and there. I use a rocket blower, long tweezers, wooden skewers, and whatever else will fit in various spaces to clean machines. I have an old credit card which I cut into a hook shape to get into the segment slots.
No matter how much you clean it, there will always be more dirt which will come out of it.
Phil Forrest
Thanks Phil, this is helpful. The chassis is smooth, not a crinkle finish. I will find the serial number and get a more precise date and post. I am hesitant to use petroleum based soak/cleaner because of the fumes and my work space. I see on YouTube videos some use a "purple" de-greasing product, that is water based. Do you have any experience with this approach. I am thinking I could spray this on the basket and at least clean the key slots.
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Thread Starter- Rusty Keys
- Novice Typer
Offline
- Registered: 04-5-2022
- Posts: 43
Re: Some general restoration questions
The machine was oiled at one time and as far as I can tell, the previous owner was a smoker with very dirty hands. I am planning to do some kind of a "dunk clean" of the machine. Any advice on what solution to use or tips on a deep clean of this sort?
I should clarify. The machine was oiled, particularly in the basket/ type key slots, and it is quite gummy. Same underneath. I have completed the removal of dust and sundry bits of fur, etc. There is, under the layer of dust, a thick layer of grime that is sticky and dirty, hence my assumption the previous owner had dirty hands. I think the machine could benefit from de-greasing.
I cringe when I see a seller describe a typewriter as 'oiled' in the listing description - that can mean only one thing and what you are describing is a symptom of that 'one thing'...
Actually, the seller was an antique shop that had it up as "not working" for $30. But yes, someone in the past oiled it (looks like motor oil)...so it is pretty gummy. The chassis has been particularly challenging to clean...I thought it was two-toned paint, but the pattern was inconsistent...turns out its just dirt...oily dirt.
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Thread Starter- Phil_F_NM
- Speed Champion
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- From: Mid-Atlantic region
- Registered: 16-4-2020
- Posts: 267
Re: Some general restoration questions
I don't like using water-based cleaners because in the process of evaporation, they begin to corrode surfaces, especially the points where different metals contact each other. Water-based cleaners can be incredibly difficult to remove because of the surfactants which could cause the lubricants to saponify and not have lubricating properties. I'm only in my second year of this with typewriters, but in my 29th year working on bicycles, 15th year working on still and motion picture cameras, and much of the same lubrication principles apply, albeit with far greater tolerances when referring to bicycles. In a nutshell, try to find a place to work outside and use a decent solvent. Remember, don't use WD-40 anywhere for anything. It's not a lubricant and it is not a good solvent either, but it's very difficult to remove without using gasoline or automotive brake cleaner.
- Rusty Keys
- Novice Typer
Offline
- Registered: 04-5-2022
- Posts: 43
Re: Some general restoration questions
Don't get any type of solvent on typewriter crinkle paint. Some paint is tougher than others, but the SC stuff from the late 40s - early 60s does not hold up well to exposure to any solvent or heavy duty soap. Use mild soap and a toothbrush on your crinkle paint. If you have a glossy lacquered Silent, just use mild soap and a diaper, then a bunch of Flitz to polish the paint. I must have taken off a few grams worth of tar from cigarette, cigar, and pipe smokers when cleaning my Corona 4 and pre-WWII Sterling.
For the machine itself, once you get the chassis out of the body, I like to use Coleman fuel with the chassis sitting in a plastic bin. No need to dunk. Just get a decent set of long-bristle paint brushes and go to town on the machine. Make sure to remove ALL of the rubber; rollers, platen, bail rollers, and the little bits which have melted between the chassis and the body. You may want some hobby enamel handy to re-paint some of the engravings here and there. I use a rocket blower, long tweezers, wooden skewers, and whatever else will fit in various spaces to clean machines. I have an old credit card which I cut into a hook shape to get into the segment slots.
No matter how much you clean it, there will always be more dirt which will come out of it.
Phil ForrestThanks Phil, this is helpful. The chassis is smooth, not a crinkle finish. I will find the serial number and get a more precise date and post. I am hesitant to use petroleum based soak/cleaner because of the fumes and my work space. I see on YouTube videos some use a "purple" de-greasing product, that is water based. Do you have any experience with this approach. I am thinking I could spray this on the basket and at least clean the key slots.
I checked the serial number and it is a 1950 model.
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Thread Starter