Hi Jim,

Yes the red key-tops are auto-repeat.  I have 4 different models of Olympia electrics, and they all have that.  3 of them are made-in-Germany and they have the same 5 key-tops in red.  My made-in-Japan Olympia SEP has only 3 red key-tops.

Lazydog,

1.  I use Scrubbing Bubbles inside and outside.  I also follow up the interior clean-up with a good spraying of Lysol disinfecting spray and let it dry in the sun.

2.  The plastic/vinyl handle actually has a strip of thin metal running through it for reinforcement.  Like this more modern-day replacement/version.  But I always carry a typewriter case with 2-hands...regardless.
.

lazydog wrote:

Hey all, just piling on here because I also acquired a 1965 SM9 a couple of weeks ago, for $50 and a drive, and it's my first Olympia and where have you been all my life? I will post pics when I get my imgur figured out.

My question: the machine itself in great shape except for the nicotine, but do you think I could use Scrubbing Bubbles on the case?

Related: why did they do top-quality build everywhere but that rinkydink plastic handle? I am afraid to actually pick it up!
 

Welcome and congratulations on a great typewriter.
As for smells and scents and cigarette smoke, etc. (one of my priorities).
Some Notes:
Many cleaning products, etc, even if claiming "scent free" and "fragrance free" can leave a stink of their own.
Avoid "Crud Cutter". . it will remove paint on old typewriters, and new one's as well.
Household spray used to remove pet "accident" odors work well but be careful not to use types that leave a bad smell of their own. But, they can and do work.
You can remove the "bodywork" on the typewriter, the lid comes off easily by pressing the inner tabs inward. Then wash the in a utility tray so you don't have to be careful with the typewriter innards.
If there is inner padding glued to the bodywork, lid, etc, that retains the stink smell, you can soak them. . then remove them using a plastic scraper. Lay the bodywork on a towel or thick rag while doing this so it doesn't get scratched up or damaged. In the old days, the adhesive is a dried tar like substance. Isopropryl alcohol works for that to get as much as you can. Be careful with lacquer thinner on paint. But, it will dissolve or soften the tar.
Windex also works.
I hope this is helpful for you.
k

Great job on those cases, Pete.
What kind of paint did you use?
Paint sprayer?
How did you prep them to paint?

thanks
k

That corner repair is amazing. That's just caulk, paint, dental pick, and patience?