Thanks for the support Krilooo.  I'm getting down to decision making time since I'm getting a little stumped at what I'm going to be able to do with this beast. I can take out the upper row of rusted typebars because the screws are accessible. But I can't even get a screwdriver on the lower row of typebars without taking out something in a major way, and all of the big screws I see on the top are rusted solid.
   So I'm going to set this one aside for awhile and maybe tinker with it when the mood takes me. I've got other projects and spring is here so the yardwork is demanding I get out there and spend time too.
   I think I might put a coat of wax on this one just to see if the black paint is still shiny underneath. But I doubt it's ever going to be "just like new" ever again.

Thanks for the manual mre12ax7. I didn't have that one before. I'll take a good look at that too.

Well, I actually got the four big screws out that attach the top to the rest of the frame. But to remove it completely would mean disconnecting all of the keybar linkages (a tedious and difficult task given how deeply buried they are in the middle) And I'm not having any luck with getting out the rest of the accessible typebars. I've used every trick I've got with oil and tapping and waiting for several days, using small ratchet wrench for torque, even using an impact driver (which won't fit straight on) etc. And I'm just about to strip out the slots on every typebar screw I've tried, and those are just the accessible ones.
    I've oiled and worked several of the rusted typebars in situ, and they will work to and fro, but they're not freeing up in any kind of way. So, I think I am just about to call it finished with this machine. I'm going to put the parts in a box and see if anyone needs parts (that I can get off ) for a Remington model 10. It was a good exercise and it only cost me $5 for the lesson so I'd say i got my money's worth.

Hi.

Do you still have parts from the Remington model 10?
I just got one myself, and it in pretty good shape. I am only missing one small, but essential part to get it back to working order. The letter e striker head have broken off the striker arm and missing. I've tried to Source this from different Places without Luck. If you still have the typebar With my missing letter, i am interessed in buying this from you.

I've worked a couple of days on that machine and I finally got the part out of it. So now I'll need your mailing address to mail it to you. Send me a private message with your address.
   By the way, it was really a lot of tear-down to get to the point of getting that "e" typebar out of there. I don't know how much patience you have but it looks like it's going to be an involved job for you. I had an advantage in that I already had the carriage and escapement completely off. But then I had to take off the upper frame half and then disconnect every one of the crosslinks between the key segment in the front and the type segment in the back so that I could lift the type segment out of there and set it flat on the table. That's the only way I could get enough weight and torque on that screw holding down the typebar pivot to break it free of the rust. And that was with many drops of gun oil and tapping on the metal and waiting overnight for the oil to sink in. Good luck with your repair.
   I'll try and post a picture to the original thread of the typebar part, although I'm sure I understand what you need from your description.

Here is the typebar segment removed and sitting in front of the keyboard. There are two rows of typebars on this model, an upper (inner) and a lower (outer). The "e" typebar was in the lower row in this case which made it  really difficult to get to without a major tear-down.

The keybar segment (which is made up of individual pivot blocks in this case) is still attached to the  keybars with the pull-wires.


And this is the result of all my labors... an "e" typebar with it's slug. It's rusty, but it'll have to do.


Jerry