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I don't know about anyone else, but there doesn't seem to be much comparison between two Underwood Fives: The "old style" made from 1900 to 1933, and the "Touch-Master" series made in the sixties. Both have their similarities such as margins set at the front and the mechanism being tied to the outer frame instead of having a detachable shell, and, obviously, both have their differences, which are so many that to include them here would take quite a bit more reading than one could do in one sitting at the computer. Anyway, the Touch-Master Five, Underwood's "last stand" as a standalone brand before they were called "Olivetti-Underwood," is not as highly revered nor as appreciated as the original Underwood Model 5. Could it be the color gray on the outside (it is a bit drab)? Could it be the lack of age in years? Could it be that it's pedigree has been diluted by Olivetti (the way Packard was diluted by Studebaker in 1957)?
To me, the Touch-Masters have a shallower keystroke reminiscent of the SX-150 Underwoods, whereas the older Model 5 machines have a somewhat deeper stroke. The tabulator on the Touch-Master machines is an auto-lockdown design (the first model with a tabulator that once pressed doesn't release until it strikes a tab stop--completing a "jump."), and the old Model 5 machines have manually set stops, usually about five of them, that are slid into place, and you have to hold down the tabulator key on the right (as opposed to a top middle bar on the Touch-Masters) until the tabulator mechanism completes its "jump."
So, what are your thoughts on these two similar, yet distinct machines? I've owned plenty of both, and I appreciate them equally. One side-thought--there is an older variation of the Touch-Master Five -- the 1959-1960 Touch-Master II, of which I have one. It was my late mother's very last typewriter, and I am NOT giving that one up for anything or anyone. It was hers, and I'm keeping it for her.
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I can´t say much about the original Underwood 5 because the two I´ve owned never typed a single letter. The first one was an overoptimistic shot at repairing a rust-and-crust bucket and the second one went to my uncle´s house as a decoration piece because he didn´t need it operational. Nevertheless, I have a 1916 Underwood 3 which pretty much can give an idea on how the Underwood 5 is.
Before going into detail, could anyone explain what are the differences between the 3 and 5? Both machines seem to be pretty similar.
If I had to define the Underwood 3 in a single word it´d be "modern". It´s surprisingly advanced for its time, or at least it feels so. Everything seems to be "in place", I mean, as if the guys who designed it weren´t trying anything new, they just got it right. Return lever on the left, ribbon spools at the top, tabulator... "conventional" design, that is, a design which would become conventional after years of experimenting with weird stuff like spools at the sides, right-handed or even double return levers, bizarre typebar arrangements... But the Underwood 3 (or 5) is equally beautiful and proficient. The touch is "simple", I mean, you can get along well with it in no time. Maybe it´s not as responsive as later models, but it lets you type easily enough if you keep in mind you´re dealing with an old typewriter: they need adequate timing, not like a pitiful laptop keyboard (just like the one I´m using right now).
And then there comes the Touchmaster Five:
This is one of my first typewriters, and the first one that needed heavy repairs by my friend Pascual. Apart from the aesthetic differences, the Touchmaster 5 feels entirely different. The shorter keystroke and the "flat" feel allow to type faster. You don´t have to drive the keys that deep to type, and in addition keys are softer. Round glass keys are Beautiful in Capitals, but after a while your fingertips will think otherwise. The Touchmaster may have uglier keytops, but they work well. And that´s the general trend: the Touchmaster is not a beautiful typewriter, but it is good enough to compete against almost anything. In fact, the Touchmaster is one of my favourites typewriters to draft with. Sometimes I write just for the pleasure of typing, but when I´m working on my stories I want a typewriter which allows me to forget about the typewriter and just focus on the story. And the Touchmaster 5 has steadily allowed me to do so.
The Touchmaster 5 might be uglier, but if you need to type heavily I´d rely on it. It´s a pity that this model is considered "second tier junk", a "breadbasket" or "a sin", because it´s a good breadbasket. It suffers from the "lil´ brother syndrome", that is, always being compared to the older one and having the Underwood 5 in front of you puts you in a difficult position. On its own it´s still ugly, but good.
All in all, I wouldn´t know which one to choose. Performance-wise, the Touchmaster, but everything else-wise the classic 3 (or 5). I like to consider the Touchmaster as the last Underwood, and with that they´ve given us a prett decent typewriter. It´s not as bad as they say, but it isn´t an Olympia SG3 either.
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I just got a Touchmaster Five a week ago, my first Underwood standard, and while it needs a fair amount of cleaning to get it working smoothly again, enough of it is working that I can tell it is a very nice machine. Yes, the looks are a bit "institutional," to coin a term, but I can deal with that. I look at it as really the culmination of all those millions of 5s that were made over the decades, and is a worthy successor to them. No, it won't make me forget the SG1/SG3, its contemporary, but it'll take its place alongside them.
Now -- who knows how to adjust the capitals so they will align vertically with the lower case letters?
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Oh, that's easy. All you have to do is to pop open the side panels on that baby, look for the "castle" nuts toward the top inside, and if, say, the caps are higher than the lower case, turn each castle nut counter clockwise. If the caps are lower, turn them clockwise. Be sure to turn each nut identically with the other so the segment basket of typebars will stay in balance. Bear in mind these lower castle nuts adjust the lower case letters. If the capitals are not printing properly (cutting off the tops, lower parts darker than the tops, et cetera), there is a topside adjustment you'll need to make. They are under the ribbon panels which slide at the top. This adjustment is held in place by a jam nut on both sides. You'll have to loosen those jam nuts. When you do, again, make sure that if you turn the right one a certain amount of turns or parts of turns, turn the other one identically. When you get better looking capitals, you'll have to readjust your lower case. Look at the above for how.
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Oh, I almost forgot. I should say something about the "cross-over" typewriter that was between the SX-150 and the Touch-Master II. I believe they made these at least from 1958-1959 (very early '59). On the outside, the body shell is very SX-150, but mechanically, it's more like a Touch-Master. For instance, the shifting mechanism has fewer parts (they took out a major part in the back that keeps the spring tension on the segment slots). The spacing mechanism is minus the rack frame (that square looking thing from behind the escapement mechanism) found in all Underwoods from the SX-150 on back. The ribbon mechanism, instead of being driven by a wheel and pawl mechanism on the right hand side, is being directly driven by the escapement wheel (no other machines do this except the Golden Touch and Touch Master). Part of the driving motion is through a small ball-chain down to the lower drive shaft that drives the ribbon spools. This machine is the Underwood "Golden Touch." The last ones were called "Touch-Master." All of them are very good, solid, reliable typewriters.
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TypewriterKing wrote:
Oh, that's easy. All you have to do is to pop open the side panels on that baby, look for the "castle" nuts toward the top inside, and if, say, the caps are higher than the lower case, turn each castle nut counter clockwise. If the caps are lower, turn them clockwise. Be sure to turn each nut identically with the other so the segment basket of typebars will stay in balance. Bear in mind these lower castle nuts adjust the lower case letters. If the capitals are not printing properly (cutting off the tops, lower parts darker than the tops, et cetera), there is a topside adjustment you'll need to make. They are under the ribbon panels which slide at the top. This adjustment is held in place by a jam nut on both sides. You'll have to loosen those jam nuts. When you do, again, make sure that if you turn the right one a certain amount of turns or parts of turns, turn the other one identically. When you get better looking capitals, you'll have to readjust your lower case. Look at the above for how.
Thanks for this! I figured you would know how it's done. So how do I get the side panels off, and back on? I cleaned a fair amount of tape residue off the sides of the machine around the panels, which tells me they don't go back on so easily. And what sort of wrench or spanner can get at those castle nuts? Finally, if I have to make the additional adjustments you mention, I will likely be back to you about those jam nuts you mention and the adjustment they lock down. I appreciate your help here very much.
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OK, I've removed the side panels -- I think it's a lot easier to do it with the front panel off, since you can use a screwdriver or similar object to push from the inside on the front clip holding the panel in place. Otherwise, I think you'll mar the paint (and the panel) by trying to pry it off. So a valuable lesson there.
I reread your note -- am I right that the "castle nuts" only adjust the lower case letters? I only see one castle nut on each side, and it's facing downward. In my case, the capitals are printing higher than the lower case, so by turning the castle nuts counterclockwise, I'll be raising the lower case letters to bring them into line with the upper case, yes?
If I am correct, and succeed in getting lower case and caps in alignment, then you mentioned the likely need for adjusting the capitals by means of an adjustment underneath the ribbon covers. Can you clarify what screws/nuts I should be looking for there? It sounds like you're saying there is a locknut ("jam nut") that has to be backed off before making the adjustment, correct? And then I'll need to return to the castle nuts to get the lower case finally adjusted?
Any help you can provide will be most appreciated, as before! (And I'm wondering how the heck this could have gotten so out of whack -- maybe some previous human intervention....)
Uwe, I hope you don't mind this dialog in front of the whole forum, rather than as personal messages. I figured it was something "the whole class can appreciate," as they say. If it should be moved to maintenance and repair, fine by me.
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Fleetwing wrote:
Uwe, I hope you don't mind this dialog in front of the whole forum...
Nope, that's what the forum is for. Those who find it of interest or help will read it. Anyone else can just skip the thread if need be.
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Great, thanks. An update -- I got the proper size wrench (3/8") and turned the castle nuts counterclockwise as TypewriterKing directed, and fingers crossed, I think I have the capitals and lower case characters more or less aligned -- yay! I will confirm with the whole keyboard, and fine tune as needed. As always, the right tool for the job makes all the difference, as does having someone experienced telling me what to do. It still needs cleaning -- the ribbon vibrator tends to stick in the up position, and the carriage doesn't come all the way back up after shifting. I need to spool on a new ribbon too. But the type alignment was the issue involving specialized knowledge.