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Hi all,
I am new to this forum, so forgive me if this post is in the wrong place or if there is already a thread discussing this. I did a cursory search and didn't find much.
I just acquired a 1963 Olivetti-Underwood Lettera 32 and I am curious to see what methods you all might recommend for a) stripping paint, and b) repainting.
I am considering trying to strip the paint on the detachable top cover down to the metal and then shining the aluminum and leaving it unpainted, but additionally repainting the rest of the body.
So some specific questions might be:
1. What method is best for stripping? Sandpaper, varnish, etc.
2. What is best used for shining the unpainted aluminum?
3. What type of paint works best for repainting?
Thanks for the help!
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1. I prefer to media blast the metal. Sanding would require several steps using increasingly finer grits, and proper technique so as not to mess up the surface.
2. Buffing wheel dressed with a buffing compound. I've buffed aluminum ribbon covers to the point that they have a mirror finish.
3. What method will you use? A rattle can or an air gun?
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I may get a few hoots for this, but it sounds like from the list that the process is a fairly expensive proposition, not for those light of wallet. I do not own a sandblaster or an air gun. I could possibly save up for a buffing wheel someday. I realize that this the best of what you would need, but to those of us who still wear the blue collar for a living are stuck with sandpaper and rattler cans. I've attained fairly good results. Not Auto-Rama quality, but better looking than the machines were before I started.
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Although Uwe is most likely correct when it comes to best practice, good results can till be achieved by hand - though not quickly. Best I can offer is that you treat the task as a labour of love and invest many hours of careful work. Begin by researching how to strip the machine down so that all of the parts you wish to paint are separate from anything else - you can hardly expect to get a good finish with the parts still assembled to others. Work slowly and carefully in removing the remnants of all existing finishes - unwise to paint over them since you cannot be sure that the new paint will take well over the old.
Touch-up paint for cars (even metallic) in spray cans can make a good finish (after the correct priming spray to the metal) if you have good spray technique - research and practise. Buffing bare metal can be done with an ordinary electric drill fitted with a buffing wheel to which is applied a little buffing compound. Compounds come in different grades, but I should first try the brown (Tripoli) general purpose one - a small bar of it should cost no more than two or three dollars. Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
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Thanks for the help, everyone! I am very lay when it comes to typewriters and I don't have a very large budget for this, but the info is much appreciated.
For the time being, I may just sand and buff the top cover and keep the rest of the housing the original Olivetti teal. It's in fairly good condition with no chips, rust, or scratches.
I'll see if I can post some before and after pictures once I finish.
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Wow!! I didn't know compounds were that cheap. And it shouldn't cost too much for a wheel to put on the end of my drill. When I get those together, I think I might try my hand at buffing a few aluminum parts to a shine and see how I come out. If I can do it, I just might try a whole typewriter base (several are made of aluminum), and make it look like something that goes with a Kirby Vacuum Cleaner.