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I'm currently cleaning & repairing an Empire Aristocrat made in 1949. Two of the screws that hold the covers on are proving tenacious & don't respond to WD40 or penetrating oil. I'm going to try heating them up with a hair dryer just to see if that gives them any movement. They don't look rusted in as I can see both ends.
Is their any advice as to how I can free them?
I have noticed that lots of the screws seem to be very tight.
I'm using a Wiha screwdriver with a 0.5mm thick tip which is 3.0mm wide. This is better than the precision screwdrivers I have as I can apply more pressure as the handle is bigger.
Is there any information about the screws used is typewriters? Many of the screws in the Aristocrat have narrow slots which is why I'm using a 0.5mm thick screwdriver. Although it is UK made at a time our measurements were imperial it is a Swiss design made under licence so could have metric screws. I think I'm going to have have to buy some more screwdrivers with 0.5mm thick tips but wider than 3.0mm.
Any recommendations?
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Vibration and leverage are generally what I rely on. You obviously understand the importance of using a proper fitting screwdriver (there's nothing worse than mangling a screwhead), and you tried penetrating oil, but I would add mechanical vibration to the mix which often is what's needed to overcome a frozen thread. Gentle tapping on the handle end of the screwdriver, along with alternating between tightening (yes, that might seem counterproductive) and loosening the screw, anything to establish some movement. Adding leverage by using longer screwdrivers also helps, but with such small screws you have to be careful as it is easy to overpower them and break them. At that point you'll need to drill them out, which isn't that difficult, and possibly re-tap the screw hole.
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Tried tightening and tapping the screwdriver with a hammer but no effect. Currently soaking the screws in Plusgas. I think I'll buy a screwdriver with a wider (4mm or bigger) tip as that will give transfer the force better. I'm reluctant to drill out the screw as I lack the best tools for the job. The screws don't look rusted and others which hold the typebar rest (eaten by moths!) in place are very tight as well.
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I had to look up Plusgas as it wasn't a brand that I'd heard of. Given it's supposed to be a quick acting release agent, what do the directions on the can say? I would think that a repeated cycle of application and soaking should do the trick, and then repeat the vibration technique. If you want to keep the original hardware then patience will be the key. Heat is also an effective technique, but not on a typewriter; the amount of heat that you would have to apply to that small area would probably end up damaging the paint.
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The instructions for Plusgas say
"Apply to seized & corroded joint or part. Crack rust by tightening movement"
Hasn't worked yet but then the screw hasn't moved in nearly 60 years.
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All I can add is that tapping combined with gentle turning both ways and penetrating oil/solvent will free the thing eventually. Just been working on the corroded chuck of an old hand brace - it took over a week to free it. Plenty of oil, tap tap tap, turn back and forth tap tap, more oil, repeat, tap tap, turn turn, repeat repeat....
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I am trying to remove the four screws on the back of an SM-7 to get at the tab brake -- I am pretty sure they were painted over at the factory when the machine was assembled. I don't know what will budge them. I have a set of Wiha screwdrivers, of which the largest fits perfectly. The trouble is that they're relatively long-shafted and so twist too much while applying torque. I think I need something shorter and beefier -- but even that may not be enough. Maybe I need to get in around the base of each screw with a razor blade, to see if I can cut the paint.
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Fleetwing wrote:
I am trying to remove the four screws on the back of an SM-7 to get at the tab brake -- I am pretty sure they were painted over at the factory when the machine was assembled.
Those screws are not recessed, but they are prone to rusting if the machine was stored in a damp location for any length of time, so I'm willing to bet that it's rust that is giving you a hard time and not paint. I've never had issues with SM7 covers when the machine was in good condition, but have had to use quite a bit of leverage to remove ones that slight rusting.
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beak wrote:
tap tap tap, ....
bloody Greta Garbo
thanks Pete & Dud (Peter Cook & Dudley Moore). Still makes me laugh.
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I've ordered a screwdriver with a 4mm wide head 0.5mm thick. Patience is the key I think. It will come out in the end!