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06-12-2016 04:45:18  #1


Adler Tippa with "sticky

I scored my first typewriter a few days ago. It's a beautiful Adler Tippa, with all of the mechanisms and externals in great condition, other than a handful of sticky keys.

The 'd' key is the worst. Even if the typebar strikes the paper, it doesn't print properly - it's cut off and far above other printed characters. It also doesn't return by itself. When I look at the bar at rest, I can see that it doesn't sit at the same angle as the other characters around it so I'm guessing that it was bent in the past.

A few of the adjacent keys (x, e, 4) get stuck in the type guide, or - if I engage the key slowly - just before they enter the guide.

I'm going to try do some cleaning soon, but it seems like I'm going to have to bend some of the bars. Can anyone offer me some advice for fixing this? Also, is this sort of thing pretty standard or should I have been more patient and waited for a typewriter without these issues?

Thanks.

 

06-12-2016 04:52:23  #2


Re: Adler Tippa with "sticky

Apologies for the unfinished post topic - I managed to submit my post too early. I'll be sure to post some photos soon too.

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06-12-2016 17:03:21  #3


Re: Adler Tippa with "sticky

I'd say the more portable the typewriter is, the more likely you'll encounter bent typebars -- not least of which because an office standard typewriter may have been less likely to be treated as a toy (since kids wouldn't have been playing with them). But any typewriter in a flea market or vintage shop is subject to abuse, regardless of its original use.

Office standard machines may have more sturdily built typebars also, reflecting the heavier usage they would experience.

Bending (or in typewriter parlance,"forming") typebars isn't hard. Just go carefully -- a little forming is often all you need to get the slug to center in the type guide. Make sure you're only tweaking the portion with the slug itself, so use something like a small adjustable wrench to grasp the typebar right below the bend so as to immobilize it. You ought to be able to do the actual forming with your other hand, no need for another wrench to grasp the slug. But in any case, proceed carefully.

Can't help you with the d -- that sounds like the slug needs to be bent forward rather than side to side. But pictures will help. 

 

07-12-2016 06:55:31  #4


Re: Adler Tippa with "sticky

Thanks Fleetwing, the information you've given me is quite helpful. I've already formed one of the keys and it's much improved. I think I'll figure out how to clean the typebars properly before I go bending any other ones though.

As for the 'd' key, I've provided some photos that I hope will make things clearer. After a closer inspection, I'm convinced that someone has tried to solder the slug back on. Is this likely? If I need to resolder it, would this be a viable path to go down given that I don't have much experience with typewriters?





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07-12-2016 07:21:14  #5


Re: Adler Tippa with "sticky

Good photos!  I assume the misshapen soldering job to the left with the two slugs side-by-side is the "d" and I'd say you are right on the money: that's not the way that machine left the factory and somebody did try their hand at a spot of soldering.  I've never resoldered a slug and I'd say that was ambitious for a first repair job and no, such things are not typical.  Whether or not you should try depends on your own confidence in your mechanical skills and resources.

It looks like the repaired slug is cold soldered - that is, using an inadequate heat source, which is why the solder looks like it was spread on like cake icing rather than nicely flowed. I would use a small torch but the issue is once the solder is melted the force holding the slug to the bar will go to zero, so how do you manipulate it and how do you align it? I'm guessing a special jig... like I say, up to your confidence in your own resourcefulness, or a repair shop...
 


"Damn the torpedoes! Four bells, Captain Drayton".
 

07-12-2016 18:50:30  #6


Re: Adler Tippa with "sticky

In addition to inadequate heat, cold solder joints are also caused by either improper or inadequate solder flux.  I'm not sure which kind of flux, but I can tell you they use rosin flux for electronics and acid flux for plumbing.  Something of this nature, I am thinking would call for a stiffer solder using acid flux.  Stiffer solder meaning more tin than a 60% tin and 40% lead solder.  I've not had much luck trying to solder type slugs onto type bars because usually special jigs are used to be able to do this.  I could get them close sometimes, but not exact.


Underwood--Speeds the World's Bidness
 

08-12-2016 04:48:06  #7


Re: Adler Tippa with "sticky

I had a brainstorm about how to hold the slug in position - there may be enough play in the type bar so it could be clamped in the correct position even though the type bar will be bent. Then apply heat until the existing solder melts and we hope the type bar will relax to its rest position so all will be correct when it hardens. It might be necessary to make a coarse adjustment first so that the final adjustment can be applied with available play and without bending the linkage...

Just thinking out loud and maybe better to look for an experienced repair shop now so you would only have to listen to the commiseration about the former attempt and not experience the head shaking that you may have made it worse! You may have bought a lemon - a good looking typewriter which has some undisclosed mechanical defect that is difficult to repair. 


"Damn the torpedoes! Four bells, Captain Drayton".
 

08-12-2016 06:46:30  #8


Re: Adler Tippa with "sticky

Thanks Repartee. I had a similar idea today, that I could apply some heat to the typebar to soften the solder and bring the slug in line with the others, but I guess it would need to get quite hot.

TypewriterKing - so it's some combination of lead, tin and flux? Does anyone else know exactly what combination is used here?

It's sounding a lot like I may have to take it to a repairer.

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