OliverNo.9 wrote:

Yesterday, I got a pair of nice machines from a gentleman who knows I collect them. The first is a 1955 Underwood De Luxe with Quiet Tab. It took a bit of tinkering to get it working well, but it works very well! I just have to adjust thee segment for lowercase typing. http://typewriterdatabase.com/1955-underwood-de-luxe.7877.typewriter

The other is a 1965 Smith-Corona Sterling with Elite typeface. http://typewriterdatabase.com/1965-smith-corona-sterling.7878.typewriter
Both are really nice typewriters to use.

I must have missed this post when it appeared. I have an identical Underwood that I got some time ago but I'd really like to adjust the motion (vertical alignment of the upper case characters with the lower case). Anyone know how it's done? I can see what I believe to be the correct adjusting screw and locknut, but it's essentially inaccessible from underneath. It's really a neat looking machine, and seems to type very smoothly. Unfortunately, I think the previous owner didn't secure it in the case properly, so the cool Underwood logo is broken and bent. That will present some challenges to restore, but first I'd like to get the typing adjusted. 

I'm a little behind in listing my recent acquisitions.
After the addition of the Royal Aristocrat a few months ago I came home with a great little Remington Rand #5 Deluxe and then the Remington Noiseless Portable that had been going to waste sitting at the antique mall for more than a year. The #5 Deluxe was perfect right out of the case but the Noiseless Portable needs a little internal cleaning and a draw band before it will run.
Last week I got a great score at a flea market on a Smith-Corona Sterling that I'm going to call a transitional model because of the 1950's body style with the 1960's key tops. A beautiful ( I'm going to have to call it ' Desert Sand ' color ) crinkle finish body with ivory white platen knobs and key tops.
Very clean inside and out with good rubber all around. As a matter of fact, the feet look like nearly new replacements
A great typer with a 12 P type face. Good touch and response and a bell so quiet I almost can't hear it from my right ear (50% hearing loss in that ear anyway).
When I opened the 60's era molded fiber glass 'carry on ' style case, I was expecting something newer and bigger but I'm no less pleased with what I got and certainly not with the $5.00 price.


Today I was out shopping for a cornet (very similar to a trumpet) at an antique mall I frequent, and I came across an Oliver #3.
No metal carry case but the machine is complete and seems to work fairly well in all respects other than needing a draw band and maybe the carriage return spring. The machine is very clean despite the lack of the cover and the paint and bright work are good to very good condition as purchased
The platen is pretty hard as one would expect and the 'rubber tube' that tensions on the platen to draw the paper in will likely have to be replaced before putting the machine through it's paces. I was able to secure this machine for $60. and I thought that was a steal considering the only other one I have seen for sale around here is a typed out #9 that looks to be in pretty rough shape despite the metal cover and definitely not worth the $110. they will insist for it.

I also saw a number of popular machines today in the same mall to include a couple of Royal QDL's , a beautiful Olympia SM model with perfect turquois blue paint and jewelling on much of the bright work metal parts.
Made me think this machine was intended to be a ladies fine writing instrument, very nice indeed.
An Underwood-Olivetti 44 Studio, a newer S-C Sterling and an older S-C Clipper.
There were a few others that the model escapes me but, it was all in all a good day for looking at typewriters and taking them home.
HABD! 

Here's the Royal P:


 

Last edited by Uwe (05-6-2017 13:15:05)

I got a 1959 Olympia SM2 for $30. A little dirty, and the ribbon cover finish is scratched where the line spacing lever has contacted it over the years -- the lever must have been bent down slightly. The machine works fine, though the hard platen doesn't grip the paper as well as it should, so the paper buckles a little when I advance the line. A piece of backing paper and/or roughing up the surface of the platen a bit ought to help.

I didn't know the SM2 was still being made so late, so I couldn't figure out at first what I had -- no tab mechanism, and margin settings were back behind the paper tray. Also, no clear plastic card holder, or the wire loop above the typing guide. Came with the nifty curved wooden hammer tone finish case.

The X = 10.