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Working on this gorgeous chocolate 1957 SM3 that came into my hands this week (the word is out about me and machines are materializing in my life!) WOndering how to get off what might be deep coffee stains in the white parts of some of the letters; soap and water not getting it, but afraid 91% alcohol might fade the rest of the key. Anyone got any thoughts? Goof off is even stronger, right?
The typical washer replacement raised the carriage so it doesn't catch, but the carriage arm still scrapes unless I hold it up a bit when I return it. Maybe another pair of washers back there...but then I am afraid I might start affecting the alignment.
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Flitz metal, paint & plastic polish for the key-tops...with some Q-tips.
If you support the pivot end of the CR lever, you should be able to reform the front part of the lever-arm with your other, free hand.
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Thanks, I will try it! And the forming makes me nervous--I think I might mess with washers a little more first. The front ones weren't nearly as bad as the rear so I didn't do them, and maybe if I did everything will end up correct again.
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Carriage arm scraping resolved...with new front washers and a VERY gentle reform as instructed. Now to find some Flitz. Thanks!
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My local AutoZone store usually stocks it in their car paint aisle. Good place for packages of wet & dry emery paper in lots of varying grits, too.
When they are out of Flitz, I get it from eBay...usually with free shipping.
Flitz on a clean shop rag is super for polishing up the paint on smooth-painted machines, as well.
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Notes:
Body panels can be removed from "innards".
4 screws underneath.
2 screws each end on the cross trim lever arm panel
4 screws each end on the back panel.
"Innards" gently remove in rear direction. There are tabs for the space bar, etc, that insert into inner front body slots.
5 The steel on old things is softer than modern steel as far as fasteners. Use "Hollow Ground" quality screwdriver bits that fit the screws and bolts deeply and snugly so the slots are not torn or rounded when removing/installing.
(Hollow ground screwdriver bits are most often found on sets of bits for firearms, etc)
Inner heavy cross bar is painted so be careful of solvents, lacquer thinner, etc.
Key plastic is older type of plastic so cover when cleaning so solvents don't discolor them.
Body panels can be cleaned gently with dishwashing liquid and soft non abrasive sponge, etc.
Avoid: "Crud Cutter" as it will remove paint, especially on pre 70's typewriters, etc.
For mechanisms: 90+ % Isop,. Alcohol works, light brushing with small nylon brush, compressed air with air compressor but be careful of high pressures as it can dislodge small springs and things. Canned air is fine but comnpressor air is cheaper.
There are some (not all) types of very clean "brake solvent" that works nearly as good as lacquer thinner to dissolve caked on "WD-40" and ancient "goop/crud" but be careful and use compressed air to remove it quickly and dry it.
Hope this helps some.
k
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Also, for "card guide removal":
4 "very tiny" screws. An "angle tweezers" comes in handy to keep the 2 screws closest to the center that hold down 2 tiny brackets from falling into the "innards" of the "innards". Use a flathead bit that fits perfectly so the tiny screws don't get the slots torn.
99% Iso Alcohol helps dissolve "White Out" on plastic card guides without hurting the soft plastic that they are made of. Finish with "Windex".
k
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SM4 but close:
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Pete E. wrote:
My local AutoZone store usually stocks it in their car paint aisle. Good place for packages of wet & dry emery paper in lots of varying grits, too.
When they are out of Flitz, I get it from eBay...usually with free shipping.
Flitz on a clean shop rag is super for polishing up the paint on smooth-painted machines, as well.
I got it at Ace Hardware
.
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Pete E. wrote:
My local AutoZone store usually stocks it in their car paint aisle. Good place for packages of wet & dry emery paper in lots of varying grits, too.
When they are out of Flitz, I get it from eBay...usually with free shipping.
Flitz on a clean shop rag is super for polishing up the paint on smooth-painted machines,
.
I got it at Ace Hardware but just noticed mine says “all metal polish..does not harm fiberglass, plastics & paint, so maybe there are different ones out there?