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Awaiting a spa-day in my garage in the next day or so.
Weighs in at 12.8 lbs. without its case weight. Seafoam green in colour.
Lightly used machine. Seems to be 100% functional and just needs a deep clean, an airing-out , some metal spools. and a new ribbon.
Made for Sears Roebuck (Tower brand) by Smith-Corona.
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I have a similar machine but mine has the Tower logo in green instead of gold. And something charming about the seeming mismatch of that light green space bar. It's one of my favorites and a good typer.
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Almost done...just needs a bit of an adjustment for upper/lower case printing.
It is a fun machine on which to type. Speedy, responsive, and still tight from lack of use in its life.
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Hey Pete, Casemaster General,
how would you go about restoration of a case torn corner?
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oops, here is picture.
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Hi Mike,
I would start with using a small pair of scissors and trim off any loose threads around the damaged area.
If the wood is separating, I try to get some super-glue in the void and press it down until the glue sets up.
I then use latex caulking ( the kind with absolutely 0% silicone content ) and apply it over the exposed damaged section with a small spackling-knife. If there is any silicone in the caulking, it will not take the paint well. This caulking is hard to find around my parts but I do end up finding some in smaller paint stores or hardware stores.
As the caulking dries almost hard...I use small dental picks to create the “texture” pattern of the original case.
Then let the caulking dry over night. Light sanding of the latex patch the next day, blow off with compressed air, and then I use some flat or satin black paint and apply it in 2-3 light applications over the latex patched area and a bit of feathering over the surrounding original black colour of the factory fabric.
I use an small artist brush on which I can cut the bristles down to a nub so I can “dab” on the touch-up paint ( and thereby not using painting brush-strokes ).
Hope this helps.
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Those for all those details Pete.
