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30-4-2013 08:31:57  #11

Re: Replacing a broken draw-band on a Remington Junior (1930s) portable.

Further research from several repair sites confirms that it is a very good idea not to put too much tension on the spring drum, specially with vintage machines.  Too much tension can lead to damage of the toothed carriage rack, since each movement of the carriage along it will knock the teeth too firmly, and may result in the loss of a tooth and consequent skipping - requiring a major, and perhaps impossible, repair. 

It is unecessary to have more tension than is needed to move the carriage successfully all the way from right to left.  This also produces a quieter machine, and makes the act of returning the carriage a little easier. 

Manufacturers often seemed to tension the carriage more strongly than was really necessary.  I don't know why that was, unless, perhaps, to allow for stretching of the original fibre draw-band over time.

Last edited by beak (30-4-2013 08:44:30)


04-6-2014 14:16:26  #12

Re: Replacing a broken draw-band on a Remington Junior (1930s) portable.

This looks exactly like the drawband fix I did on my remington portable no.2. I threaded the fishing line through first of all, then wound the mainspring etc. The mystery lever is used to lessen the tension on the mainspring, bit by bit with each tweak. You can also increase the tension on the mainspring a little at a time by using a screwdriver in the main, biggest slot there, and turning clockwise. I didn't have mine wound quite enough when I did my replacement with the fishing line, and I gave it about half a turn more - very carefully! I didnt 't want to end up having to fix the spring itself. Great pictures, and explanation very clear and thorough.


12-3-2015 13:34:51  #13

Re: Replacing a broken draw-band on a Remington Junior (1930s) portable.

Just jumped into my first drawstring repair.  This was helpful- thanks!  ~Tom~ 

Right on the lake in Erie PA. 

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