Well I never said I knew advanced welding... 

I dont know, I usually weld steel, and that was a little long ago. But couldnt you weld it with a different metal? Your not trying to get the metal to melting point, it doesnt even have to be hot, your just adding metal onto the part.

thetypewriterman wrote:

Typewriterguy - do you really know how to weld cast iron ? My understanding is that the piece has to be pre-heated in an oven and then a cast iron filler stick used. This is a pretty tricky operation, which would involve removing the part from the machine, stripping it of all levers and screws, professional facilities - and of course refinishing the casting afterwards since the heat would destroy the paint. I wouldn't like to try it myself.........!

Not to mention that cast iron is notorious for having impurities that are prone to pop and sputter when heated locally like this. I wouldn't like to try it myself.....

ztyper wrote:

Ugh... This is looking very, very daunting... I think I might use some sort of metal glue like TypewriterGuy suggested, and if that works, then yipee-kai-ya. But if it doesn't... then I'm going to be mourning for awhile...

Agree that this is a challenge. Plain old simple "glue" is not up to it but some modern adhesives might be. JB Weld has a good reputation in the typosphere and it has usually come through for me except in cases of small area subject to high stress and high leverage---as you should expect. Other epoxies and other type altogether might work, too; I just don't know about them.

Here're the keys to your problem: This is a clean break and if you don't fit it back together tightly it may throw off the geometries of other parts fastened to it (though maybe they can be adjusted to compensate). In order to fit it tightly, you'll probably have to remove it or at least release all the stress from connected parts. In order to fit it tightly, there won't be room between the parts for much filler or a thickish layer of epoxy, so you'll want an adhesive that doesn't rely on filler, The jaggedness of the break is in your favor as it gives a lot of surface area but even so, you might want to drill holes into the mating faces to provide extra reinforcment as the epoxy gets in them and hardens. Or consider whether you need plates screwed to the outer sides for reinforcement. A lot depends on how much stress and in what directions this piece has to withstand. Finally, although the break is clean, the surfaces must be also; be sure they are scrupulously clean before applying an adhesive.

Could work. Good Luck.

Uhhhhh I think this is what you need....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-UNDERWOOD-TYPEWRITER-PARTS-Crafts-Repair-/161856997132?hash=item25af6dc70c:g:NT0AAOSwA4dWHUT5


If you buy it, or anyone here does, please tell me, I NEED THE LEFT MARGIN STOP! Ill pay you!

Last edited by TypewriterGuy (15-10-2015 18:33:05)

oOohhhhhhhhh..


Well keep checking Ebay if you want to replace the carriage! Theres lots of Underwoods being taken apart right now....