Typewriter Talk / Smith Corona Electric Portable, 5 series - CASE issue

**Posted by Pete E.** **Online!** 08-10-2023 14:07:14

In the photo below, I have highlighted in blue the mechanical lever just below the electrical micro-switch.

This lever pivots up/down as the linkage from the rotary on/off switch and the ribbon-cover dead-man switch are in their "operate" positions. This lever pivots around the big silver screw at the right side of the lever.

If all the linkages and pivoting lever seem to work properly, you will need to remove and open up the electrical micro-switch to see if the contacts, within, are clean and not oxidized.

Let me know what you find and if you need more help and/or photos. I will leave my machine out for a day or so...
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**Posted by mikeytap** 08-10-2023 18:57:09

M. Höhne wrote:
I'm sorry for your disappointment. Not sure what you mean by time to move on, but I urge you to not trash this but to make it available to someone who will take on the challenge. Like me, in New England.

Meaning to set it aside for another day. I'm not giving up just yet.

**Posted by mikeytap** 09-10-2023 11:42:16

Pete E. wrote:
Hi Mike,

The rotary switch and a ribbon-cover dead-man switch both have to be turned "on" before the electrical micro-switch makes & breaks to complete the electrical circuit.

In the photo below, I have circled in "red" the ribbon-cover dead-man switch.

I have also highlighted in "blue" the electrical micro-switch. You can see a pair of switch-wires coming to and going out the micro-switch is you look in the space between the micro-switch and the right side ribbon spool.

Below the micro-switch you will see a black lever that is connected to the linkage coming from the rotary switch and the dead-man switch.
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Well dang, just when I was about to give up I followed your directions to check out that micro switch and it wasn't being fully depressed by the linkage lever (from the cover's deadman switch) underneath it. The machine springs to life when I activate the switch direct to AC. So it looks like I need to re-form that lever under it to activate the switch. Thanks so much for the help. The big belt looks not too bad but the smaller belt is rough, so also thanks for the belt source.

**Posted by mikeytap** 09-10-2023 11:50:10

Pete. .. . . belts,
I noted a large belt and a smaller belt but I bet they are the same size and that is what you pointed me to on their listing?

**Posted by Pete E.** **Online!** 09-10-2023 17:01:35

Hi Mkie,

Two of the same sized o-rings worked out fine on my 5TE. The middle idler-pulley, when it is clean and free to move, should self-center so both o-rings of the same size worked best for me.

If the pulley is gunked-up and cannot move side-to-side, a previous owner may have used different belts to compensate for that...not realizing the pulley should "float" between the motor pulley and the power roller pulley.

Yours will go out in the mail tomorrow.
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**Posted by Pete E.** **Online!** 09-10-2023 17:07:32

Mike,

Thought you would get a chuckle out of this photo. I think I should get a free share of McMaster-Carr stock for my effort...
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**Posted by mikeytap** 09-10-2023 17:52:40

That collection of belts should see you out.

**Posted by Pete E.** **Online!** 09-10-2023 18:16:01

That seller on eBay who had been selling a pair of o-rings for $ 20...has now priced them at $ 27.

Inflation sucks.