I have been using a 1935 Smith-Corona Silent, and it doesn't have an End-Of-Page indicator either.
So I cobbled one up based on the Smith Corona Skyriter's "Page Gage," which has a line counter on the left end of the platen.
You insert a fresh sheet of paper with the platen aligning the Page Gage at a certain spot, and the 11" long page will align with the count-down numbering, indicating how many lines you have left.
I just used a length of 2-line-high white correction tape, put it in sideways (vertically), and typed the line numbers 24 down to 1, vertically on the correction tape. 
Then I peeled off the adhesive backing, and put the tape onto the far left side of the platen. 
Voila! My very own Page Gage for my 1935 S-C Silent. 
I marked line -7- as the line for the starting number when inserting a fresh page, and then roll the page into position. 
Then I'll type away with wild abandon until some 60 lines later, I'll see the number "6" roll up - One inch remaining.
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If you are going to make your own page gage, you'll have to make adjustments for the size of your platen, so you know what number setting to use as the start position,  and the paper margins so you don't cover up the page gage.
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I used  Avery CR-26 Correction tape because it is 2/6-inch tall, and already self-adhesive, but you are free to attempt to use ordinary paper, trim it as required, and use double-stick tape to stick it onto the far left - or far right - side of the platen, out of the way of your left- and right- margin settings. .

You will probably need to add or subtract the total number of rows, depending on the diameter of your platen, and you will need to determine for yourself which counter number you need to start with, so the counter will properly count down to 1 at the correct spot. 

Happy typing!

I have some carbon paper that's been around in my stationery stuff since the middle 1960's.
After this intriguing message thread, I pulled out a sheet and did a bit of typing.
Then I pulled out a sheet of carbon paper that I picked from the Staples store about 2 months ago and did a bit more typing.

The 1960's carbon impressions were clear (as a carbon copy can be), but there *is* a slight difference from the 2018 carbon copy.

I attribute the difference to the variation in carbon paper formulation changes over 50 years rather than the actual age of the carbon paper.

Ordinary typing paper, when kept tucked away for half a century, can look as fresh as a daisy. 
So its no stretch to think that carbon paper can remain fresh as a daisy for a similar period of time.

Unfortunately for me, my Smith-Corona Skyriter isn't too happy with anything more than 1 sheet, 1 carbon, and 1 sheet.  So to make multiple copies, I have to use my printer/copier to make color copies of the carbons :-(

-- Ardie

To those of us who not only love typewriters, but to those of us who love to type, I'd say this article should be shown to those who don't really understand.

"Things I learned in Secretarial School"
New York Times  (2018-08-11)

https://nyti.ms/2KMI2g1

Its an excellent reason to learn how to type.
Not just pressing keys, but composition, speed, accuracy, and above all, confidence.

It reminded me of my mother's story.  She went to Chillicothe Business College (Missouri) in a time when office clerks were respected jobs, and learned to be a secretary to escape the dead-end future of living on a farm in a small town.  She didn't just learn office skills, she lived them. Filing, shorthand, typing, and more. Office etiquette. Telephone manners. Care and maintenance of office equipment. All "dead" skills today, it seems, but vital to keeping the wheels of American Industry turning back then.

And not just shorthand. She could do shorthand as fast as you could talk after two cups of coffee. And she could read others' shorthand (which is a *lot* harder than reading someone else's handwriting).
And not just typing.  She could type 90-100 words a minute.  On a manual typewriter. 

When she graduated, she got a real office job and escaped her home town of 2,400 (which is smaller than the dormitory where I went to University). She met and married an engineer, saw a good part of the world, and then settled down to raise her kids. 

Sadly, her skills only live in me as a faint glimmer, not a shining beacon.  Of my siblings, we all type -- on computers, but I am the only one that still owns a typewriter.  And I use it for official correspondence when hand-typed documents would be noticed and given more attention than usual.  Mom was loyal to Smith-Corona, and for some reason, so am I.

-- Ardie
You'd think I would've turned out better.

Yeah, I'm guilty of using fountain pens.  I have a couple of old Schaeffer pens, a Waterman, a few modern and classic Mt Blancs, but my favorite oldie is the Parker 51.  Right weight, right size, right feel, right everything.  But it leaks something awful :-(

I can't seem to find the ultra-super-fine nibs that simply everyone seemed to use in the 40's and 50's.  My mother's letters (espescially the air mail ones) look like they were written with spider silk. 
I've seen a pen -once- on eBay listed with an "accountant nib," but I couldn't justify the bid at the time.

If you go down the classic pen rabbit hole, you will probably be disappointed as the nibs are worn and the refill mechanism has a 50-50 chance of leaking.
So I go over to my favorite store, Art Supply Warehouse (https://www.artsupplywarehouse.com/) and buy their cheapie fountain pen, 'Pen and Ink Sketch' in extra-fine nibs for less than $20.00.  They work with a refillable reservoir or cartridges.  After about a year, the nib starts getting tired, and its easier to just toss it out and get another one.  Hurts a lot less than wearing out (or losing) a $250 pen. A couple of mine accidentally went for a ride in the washing machine, and I didn't shed any tears there. 

I don't really do any writing worth archiving for the ages, so I usually swipe a ream of copy paper of the month from the office.  Someday, I'll bite the bullet and get 100% cotton 24 lb bond paper for writing/typing, but it won't be today.  Oooo. Maybe onionskin.

Now lets talk about fountain pen ink.  I prefer BLACK, not just black.  And it had better not bleed through the paper like it was a sponge. 
Waterman, Sheaffer, Parker, Mt Blanc, Namiki, Sailor, I'm not impressed (although the aroma of the Waterman ink is bewitching),
Monteverde's "Midnight Black" is okay.
Herbin's "Perle Noire" is pretty good.
Pen and Ink Sketch's "India Black" is okay.  Since the bottle is low and wide and easy to refill the pen, and since its cheap, it is

I have two Smith-Corona Skyriters: one is 10 CPI (Pica), and the other is 12 CPI (Elite).

I wondered which ribbon made my typewriter look the best, and got a cotton ribbon, a silk ribbon, and a nylon ribbon.

The heavily-inked cotton ribbon was not just black, but BLACK. It looked really good in he Pica machine, but was too inky for the Elite machine.  Too many filled-in a's and e's.

The silk (Kores-brand) ribbon was Black, and looked great in both the Pica and Elite machines. No filled-in letters.  The print was a bit uneven, but the ribbon was brand-new, and rhat might have something to do with it.

The easy-to-get nylon ribbon was not black.  It was more like dark grey.  Nevertheless, the output was even and readable. 
But I can't un-see how pale the nylon print looked when placed next to silk or cotton. :-(

As the results are now, I *lust* for the silk ribbon, even though its about twice as expensive.

I may need to do more testing by typing 3 or 4 pages full of #'s and @'s to see if the ribbons will look better once the excess ink is pulled out.

-- Ardie