Maintenance & Repairs » Brother Charger 11 -- perplexing problem » 29-4-2023 19:39:59 |
Thanks everyone. I managed to fix the problem. Repeated flushes, blowing air, and a very slight bend of the type bars. I still find it odd, however, that the only two keys that were sticky were the ones on the far left and far right of the top row of keys. Odd coincidence.
Maintenance & Repairs » Brother Charger 11 -- perplexing problem » 28-4-2023 17:54:33 |
I have been servicing my recent thrift shop purchase -- Brother Charger 11 -- and have encountered an unusual problem...and I need some advice. Everything works well on the typewriter -- it needed a cleaning and new ribbon but generally no mechanical problems. However, I did encounter one perplexing problem: on the top row of keys, the number 2 key (far left) and the dash/asterisks key (far right) are both sticking...and I have tried every trick in the book (repeated flushing with denatured alcohol, toothbrush scrub, etc.) to get them to move freely, but nothing is working. Is it coincidence the two top row end keys are sticking or is there some mechanical explanation for this issue that is unique to this model of typewriter? As I said above...all other functions are working really well. Any advice welcomed.
Maintenance & Repairs » How to get rid of oily smell? » 27-4-2023 17:46:54 |
Thanks everyone...very helpful suggestions.
Maintenance & Repairs » How to get rid of oily smell? » 26-4-2023 17:58:32 |
Occasionally, I purchase a typewriter and there is a pervasive oily smell. Often the machine works fine and there is no evidence of excessive oil or gunk...just a smell of oil. How do you get rid of this smell?
Any suggestions welcome.
Maintenance & Repairs » Some general restoration questions » 18-7-2022 04:33:38 |
Phil_F_NM wrote:
Did you replace the disintegrated rubber washers which separate the body from the frame? I make mine out of old bicycle inner tube rubber.
Phil Forrest
Yes, I did. I find a paper hole punch works well for making washers.
Maintenance & Repairs » Some general restoration questions » 17-7-2022 04:51:23 |
Phil_F_NM wrote:
I am assuming that when you say chassis you are meaning the painted metal body. The chassis would usually denote the actual mechanical bits under the body. Did you take the body off the machine?
Phil Forrest
Yes, I meant the painted metal body. (I'm still learning the correct nomenclature). I removed the body first and cleaned it with toothpaste and tooth brush. I found this worked best to remove the greasy layers of dirt. The internal workings (mechanical bits) were cleaned as I described above.
Maintenance & Repairs » Some general restoration questions » 16-7-2022 04:08:35 |
Update: I decided to not do a full immersion cleaning. Instead I used Simple Green in a spray bottle and focused on the basket area and the keys, followed by a very good rinsing and a rapid drying with compressed air. I also let the machine sit outside on a windy sunny day to air dry. The outcome was remarkable. Prior to this cleaning all the keys were either stuck, or sticky. Now, all they keys move very easily.
I did some minor adjustments, cleaned more internal parts with Q-tips and dental picks, did some touch ups, reassembled the chassis, and presto, I have a clean, functioning 1950 Smith Corona Silent. I am quite pleased with the outcome. This was a great learning experience.
Maintenance & Repairs » Some general restoration questions » 13-7-2022 21:49:10 |
Rusty Keys wrote:
Update -- it has taken me at least 4 hours to clean the just the chassis. Keep in mind this typewriter was remarkably dirty to begin with. I did several tests on different areas to see which one yielded the best results. I tried the following products: rubbing alcohol, toothpaste, Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish, soap and water, Flitz polish and WD-40. For applicators I tried: toothbrushes, cotton cloths, QTips, plastic scrubber pads and extra fine steel wool. My conclusion -- toothpaste and toothbrush and elbow grease yielded the best results. The chassis looks like new (with the exception of a few age related nick's and scratches).
And it smells minty fresh too!
Maintenance & Repairs » Some general restoration questions » 13-7-2022 21:47:29 |
Update -- it has taken me at least 4 hours to clean the just the chassis. Keep in mind this typewriter was remarkably dirty to begin with. I did several tests on different areas to see which one yielded the best results. I tried the following products: rubbing alcohol, toothpaste, Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish, soap and water, Flitz polish and WD-40. For applicators I tried: toothbrushes, cotton cloths, QTips, plastic scrubber pads and extra fine steel wool. My conclusion -- toothpaste and toothbrush and elbow grease yielded the best results. The chassis looks like new (with the exception of a few age related nick's and scratches).
Maintenance & Repairs » Some general restoration questions » 12-7-2022 13:52:17 |
Rusty Keys wrote:
Phil_F_NM wrote:
Don't get any type of solvent on typewriter crinkle paint. Some paint is tougher than others, but the SC stuff from the late 40s - early 60s does not hold up well to exposure to any solvent or heavy duty soap. Use mild soap and a toothbrush on your crinkle paint. If you have a glossy lacquered Silent, just use mild soap and a diaper, then a bunch of Flitz to polish the paint. I must have taken off a few grams worth of tar from cigarette, cigar, and pipe smokers when cleaning my Corona 4 and pre-WWII Sterling.
For the machine itself, once you get the chassis out of the body, I like to use Coleman fuel with the chassis sitting in a plastic bin. No need to dunk. Just get a decent set of long-bristle paint brushes and go to town on the machine. Make sure to remove ALL of the rubber; rollers, platen, bail rollers, and the little bits which have melted between the chassis and the body. You may want some hobby enamel handy to re-paint some of the engravings here and there. I use a rocket blower, long tweezers, wooden skewers, and whatever else will fit in various spaces to clean machines. I have an old credit card which I cut into a hook shape to get into the segment slots.
No matter how much you clean it, there will always be more dirt which will come out of it.
Phil ForrestThanks Phil, this is helpful. The chassis is smooth, not a crinkle finish. I will find the serial number and get a more precise date and post. I am hesitant to use petroleum based soak/cleaner because of the fumes and my work space. I see on YouTube videos some use a "purple" de-greasing product, that is water based. Do you have any experience with this approach. I am thinking I could spray this on the basket and at least clean the key slots.
I checked the serial number and it is a 1950 model.
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