Like many of us, I have been looking for a serviceable program to do such a thing for a while, in vain. This one is much better than any other "OCR"-type thing I have tried. Perhaps because it is designed to convert handwriting to text, it is more able to manage typewritten vagaries.

https://www.pen-to-print.com/

I uploaded a PDF of 4 pp I typed single-spaced on a well-tempered 1964 Hermes Rocket with a good ribbon, and what it gave me back in Word was frankly flawless. I then used spellcheck to remove my hyphens and correct my own typos, which was a quick job. So much better than the gobbledygook OCR has usually given me. I did have to copy and paste it into a new Word doc to access spellcheck and formatting options.

First 10 pp free, 100 pp / month for $10, other options available. I don't know if it uses AI or what--but I plan to keep experimenting with it. I am NOT a rep for this program--but I am certainly a fan. And of course, I am always interested to hear if anyone else has also found a good tool. But it is nice to have one to offer for a change!
 

Hi all,
I have several Olympia SMs, and would like to change out the much more supple platen from my 1977 SM9 for the rock hard one on my 1956 SM4. I do not think I can do this, because the variable release on the 1956 is via a button pressed IN on the right platen knob, and the later one via pulling OUT the left platen knob. So I assume different mechanisms=not interchangeable platens. But since both are working inside the platen in the same direction (to the left), I wonder if maybe I am wrong. Anyone got any thoughts before I try it and probably come to grief? Thanks!
 

Better here than in portables, sorry--I realize since posting that I could perhaps slip a spacer in atop each spring, thus increasing the downward pressure, but I would need some pretty tiny tweezers and a lot of patience...

Hi all,
A weird problem! I have resuscitated a 1956 Lettera 22 that I thought was a goner. I opened and repaired the mainspring and voila, it is back in business. Unremarkable machine I guess--except it has both Spanish and French keys, a dead key accent, and a handsome typeface I had only seen on a Torpedo previously. And I want it to sing again!

The weird issue is that the ribbon reversal mechanism, even thought it is functioning correctly when tested upside down, is not catching the gears underneath when it is right side up and the spools are installed. It only works when I apply the slightest pressure to the top of each spool nut when it is trying to draw--then it works like it's 1956.

I think the issue has to do with the springs on the spindles underneath, which look designed to keep gentle pressure upward on the frame and downward on the spindle so the gears at the bottom mesh into place. They have maybe lost some of their zing, so the assembly doesn't drop fully, and it won't work. Matter of less than a millimeter! But I don't know how to fix it, short of disassembling the whole spindle mechanisms and somehow replacing the springs--above my grade, still.

Is this familiar to anyone? Thoughts of what I could do? I am thinking about putting something soft on top of the nuts that will press down gently when the ribbon cover is on to simulate my gentle pressure--but that isn't really a fix, is it?

Thanks all!

An evergreen topic maybe: I had 3/4 of a sticker removed by a previous owner on the front center of a Royal HH a couple of weeks ago, and went at it with some Goo Gone. Got it off, but found that it wore down the crinkle paint as well. I think the fault was probably mine; I went at the Goo Gone with some kitchen paper towel and that was probably way too abrasive. I am disappointed in myself. This "get it clean!" thing kicks in and before I know it I have scrubbed too hard! I had excellent Goo Gone success with tape residue on one of my first machine, a 56 SkyRiter--I thought maybe because it was plastic it worked better?

To the point: this gorgeous 1959 SM2 is now mine for $50 and a drive, and it types like a dream. A real rival to my '65 SM9. I don't even miss the tabulator.

But wondering if I should try Goo Gone on this weird adhesive spot. The position and the state of the machine when I got it makes me think the original owner taped a pad here or something to protect against a scraping return lever (it had dropped, needed the "SM washer replacement," which I managed). Everything about it is in excellent shape and trying to figure if Goo Gone will make the stain worse.

For me it is always about trying to know when to leave well enough alone!





 

Hi all,

I am so grateful for the expertise and generosity of this forum. I post a lot of questions (don't know enough to share many answers yet), and all your willingness to share answers is such a help.

I acquired a 1955 pica Royal HH with some bad rust in the works for a song; carriage works fine. I think the keys are a lost cause; I probably broke them worse trying to get them unstuck. Live and learn.

I am pretty sure I have ANOTHER HH keyset (green tops), living in a KMG body as part of a mid 50s refurb. It is elite. That machine also has a longer carriage, but I don't think that will matter for what I am considering doing.

Which is replacing the whole keyset (is that the term: keys, arms, slugs, basket, all of it) in the rusted HH with the one from the KMG. Seems like it should be straightforward, since someone did that exact thing to the KMG at one point. Might even work better since it was made for it.

Sounds crazy, no? Any pointers or suggestions for good tutorials on how I might proceed? I could just start unscrewing things and teach myself, since neither of these machines is particularly rare or precious--but better to know something before launching in.

And was this "drop an HH into a KMM/G" a popular refurb in the 50s or 60s? Like repainting your Lettera? I have a seen a few out there.

Thanks!